rschoenm

Thank you. Now I need to make a working wooden zipper :-)

Thank you. Now I need to make a working wooden zipper :-)

Very nice. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you! If you make a set of bowls, please share with the Instructable community!

Thanks for your interest. I would do it like this: First, cut a 1 to 2 inch length of thread on the front of your long dowel. Then 3d print a dowel guide that has the same (interior) thread on the left side - past the v-groove bit. Mount this dowel guide and thread in the tip of your long dowel. Finally, use the new dowel guide to pull/turn your long dowel across the v-groove bit. You will have to cut the total depth of the thread in one pass for this to work. Good luck, let us know if you do this.

Thanks for your question. I actually designed the toy in Fusion 360 before converting the files to svg for laser cutting. So I added the dxf files from Fusion 360 to Step 1 above for you to import and 3d print. I tried them, they should work for you.The translation from Fusion dxf to Inkscape svg or vice versa does not always work correctly, e.g. Bézier curves and splines often get lost or messed up. So I'm not surprised that reimporting the svg files into Fusion 360 doesn't quite work. I actually tried and yes, the handle file imports incorrectly.Let me know if this solves your problem, and please share your 3d printed version with the Instructables community.

Thanks!

That is a beautiful box! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for your comment. I'd like to see your box, maybe you can post a picture under the "I Made It" section above! Thx again!

Dankeschön 👍 Eine Kombination von Mathematik, Ingenieurwesen, und Holzarbeit. Macht immer Spass!

Thanks!

Thanks! I thought Reuleaux triangle at first, but its different as the trircle has no sharp corners. I suppose if you set the parameter small_arc in the Fusion 360 model equal to zero you would get a Reuleaux triangle. It does break the model as is at small_arc = 0, but you can see an almost Reuleaux triangle at small_arc = 0.01 inches, see attached image.Thanks again for you kind comment.

Thx. Maybe we'll take a vote on the name in a little while :-)

Lots of play on words :-) , I like it!So we should name the technique "Fusion Ware Ircle Bowls". No sharp corners allowed! You can make oval, egg-shaped, trircle, squircle, rectircle, pentircle, and polygircle Fusion Ware! Other suggestions welcome :-)Thanks for your comment!

You are 100% correct. At the same time it has not been a problem for me in the past. I think that is because the contact between the door and the floor is through only one of the wood segments. As long as the floor is fairly flat (not concave) there should be little stress on the glue joints or the wood segments. If you use just the very tip because the door bottom is very close to the floor the tip might break off; and you should definitely cut a 'long-grain' door stop.I considered putting in a spline lengthwise along both edges for looks and added strength; maybe next time. Anyways, I like the aesthetics, and if one doorstop breaks I'll make another one :-)I like the cheese board idea, will put that in my project queue. Thanks for your interest.

A beautiful box you made. Interesting how you used a router to cut the notches for the lid 'runners'. Maybe you can add a link to my original Instructable in your step 9 for the how-to with a table saw. Thx.

Thanks! Happy New Year!

Thanks! Happy New Year!

Thanks, I'll try that next time I cut some spirals!

Thanks for the article, very interesting. It far exceeds my capabilities and tools to build anything like that; but I sure would like to see an engine like that in action. The wooden 'Twisty Toy' version from my Instructable has also been quite popular as a little gift.

Thanks, its a fun little toy.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing!

Nice prototype!

Thanks! Very cool!

Thanks, very cool video!

Could be, I don't know. I've never seen this approach before. If you have, please let me know. Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks, I have fun making these! I'm not an expert on current 3d printer models; I have an older Dremel 3D20 and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. They both work well for me. If I were to buy a printer today I would probably look at (depending on your budget) Creality Ender 3, Original Prusa i3 MK3S+, Dremel DigiLab 3D45, or MakerBot Replicator+.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion. Endless opportunities, if I only had time ... My problem is that I always tend to move on to the next project :-)

You are welcome!

Thanks for your suggestions!

Thanks! Please let us know how your bird feeder lid works out!

Thanks. This hasn't been a problem for us as we live in a very dry climate. If it becomes a problem you can always do some careful (minor) trimming/sanding where it binds.

Looking forward to it!

Thanks! That would work and may save some time. Let me know if you try that approach.

Thank you!

Thanks. It works remarkably well!

I agree!

Hello, I have uploaded the pdf files. Be sure to scale at 100% when you print them.Let us know how your noisemaker turns out!

That is so kind. It made my day!

Thanks!

Please share your results with us when you are done! Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks, it was fun to make!

Interesting suggestion, I should try that sometime. From my experience the 'entry cut' is barely visible in the final bowl. At times I have also used a small sliver of different colored wood inserted into the seam before gluing it together; turning the cut into a design feature. Finally, the 'entry cut' essentially creates a scarf joint which is very strong.

Thanks. Let me know how it works with a scroll saw.

Thanks for the suggestion. It's a variation of my approach shown in the last five pictures in Step 1.

Thanks!

Kein Problem! Alles Gute aus (always sunny) Neu Mexiko!